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Body Talk

Stress, anxiety and fear

When you learn their language you may realise that dogs never stop talking…

Signs that may indicate stress, anxiety or fear in dogs include a tucked tail, ears flat and back, licking the lips or nose, whale eye, looking away, raised paw, trembling, a low body posture, yawning, panting, grooming, sniffing, seeking out human comfort, hiding and a stiff or frozen posture. Some of these are also examples of displacement behaviour.

It is important not to focus on just one aspect of the body but rather one should observe the whole of the body whilst also considering the context and environment. An example could be a dog that lunges whilst on the lead. Is it because it is frustrated by the lead and may possibly otherwise be friendly off lead? Or perhaps it’s a genuine fear and the dog is exhibiting the behaviour in question to see off the other dog?

Clients are often unaware that their dog may be exhibiting signs of stress or fear. One study showed that about 30% of dogs in the veterinary waiting room displayed signs of stress which were not noticed by the owners and included panting, yawning and grooming.

Tails

A wagging tail does not always mean the dog is friendly as many people believe. If the dog is highly aroused, either positively or negatively, the tail often tends to be raised high. Tails tend to wag when a dog is emotionally aroused. Dogs may also use their tails as communicative signals which can include threatening displays or appeasement, play, nervousness, confusion, anxiety and fear.

Tense or loose body

A tense body can indicate uncertainty, apprehension or a feeling of being uncomfortable in the environment. When a dog freezes this could be a warning that the dog is preparing for a flight or fight response. If the warning is ignored, aggressive behaviour may happen. Conversely, a loose, soft and flexible body will indicate that the dog is relaxed and comfortable the environment.

Avoidance

Avoidance behaviour is characterised by a dog looking away or walking away and is an attempt to avoid conflict or confrontation. Cut off signals are generally used between two or more dogs and typically during play sessions or greetings. These are noticeable when a dog stops what it is doing and does something different such as yawning, lip licking, sniffing the ground or scratching. Dogs that have been well socialised will respond better to these signals than poorly socialised dogs. Those dogs less versed in this language may become confused and this may lead to aggression. Fearful avoidance is shown by a low head and tail with the body close to the floor as if trying to appear smaller.

Ears

Similar to the tail, what a dog does with its ears will give indications about the internal emotional state. Ears that are back and flat against the head may indicate a submissive feeling, especially in younger dogs. Ears that are back but not quite flat can be a sign of agitation. Perked up ears show the dog is alert and interested or perhaps to make the dog look bigger either to show aggression or as a response to aggression.

Mixed-breed dog, close-up on head and ears
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Feisty Fido – A Review

FEISTY FIDO (book)

Help For the Leash-Reactive Dog

Patricia B. McConnell, PHD

Karen B. London, PHD

2003

Patricia McConnell and Karen London are ethologists, PHD level qualified. Both are Certified Applied Animal Behaviourists and professional dog trainers specialising in treating serious behavioural issues in domestic dogs.

Feisty Fido addresses the very specific behavioural issue of leash reactive dogs that demonstrate aggressive behaviour towards other dogs. The book offers advice in a very straight forward and easy to understand manner and is optimistic in its outlook; in the first few pages it states that even for most lead reactive dogs there is a high rate of successful treatment.

However, the book remains somewhat grounded and emphasises that it will not ‘create dogs who are good with all other dogs in all situations’ but rather more realistically states that what you will gain from the advice within the book is the ability to walk your dog on the lead around others without causing a scene (successful management is often the only realistic outcome.)

The essence of the book revolves around the principles of counter conditioning and desensitisation and provides easy to understand concepts and examples that even someone new to dog training should be able grasp and therefore implement a workable behaviour change programme so as to train a dog to exhibit behaviour that is different to the current reaction to a stimulus.

The effectiveness of counter conditioning and desensitisation is contingent on them being used together. This methodology is often used in behaviour change programmes and especially for types of behaviour associated with anxiety, fearfulness and aggressiveness. Although often lengthy in process these techniques have a proven track record of success and are appropriate in that they do not suppress behaviour but rather they engage to alter the actual emotional response of the dog to specific stimuli.

Desensitisation is the first part of the procedure in which a learned fear is extinguished by gradual low level exposure to the stimulus. The aim is that the dog is eventually exposed to the stimulus without involuntary fear responses being evoked. It should be noted that the process of desensitisation may allow the subject to get to a position of feeling neutral to the stimulus rather than fearful but it will not elicit positively pleasing emotions.

It is with counterconditioning that the respondent behaviour of the dog to a stimulus is replaced with a contrasting automatic response. The process can actually replace an undesirable response to a stimulus with a positive emotional response instead. This is achieved by the association of the aversive stimulus with something salient and appetitive while the dog is under the threshold of emotional arousal. Nonetheless, the book is also realistic and certainly lays no claim for a silver bullet or a quick fix and stresses that in reality the process of serious behaviour modification takes time, patience and consistency.

By using these approaches the book proceeds to teach what it refers to as the watch, the same contingency is often called look at me and simply means gaining the dog’s attention. This is one of the most important of behaviours to teach in dog-training as teaching a dog to focus on you is paramount. The procedure outlined in this book advises training to start in areas with no distractions which then graduates systematically and slowly with low distractions set at a sub threshold distance, working towards a situation of more prominent distractions until a point that the subject will eventually learn that whenever they see another dog, it is better to watch you than to pay attention to the other dog.

The second training technique outlined is teaching the dog the U-Turn. As the name suggests this involves training the dog to turn 180 degrees and go the other way upon seeing another dog. The rationale behind this is to encourage the dog to follow the client away from the stimulus without having to be tugged on the lead, which in itself can exacerbate leash reactivity. Again, this process is slow and systematic and one that starts with no distractions and works up to higher levels of distractions but is a very worthwhile exercise.

As might be expected this book takes an ethical path and follows the obligation to find the least intrusive intervention possible, these are the principles and techniques that have come to be known and are referred to as positive reinforcement. In this instance intrusiveness is defined by the degree to which any method causes harm either physically or emotionally to the dog.

Unsurprisingly the book avoids any reference to methods of shock or startle. It is alarmingly common advice that dogs expressing fear or aggressive behaviour be shocked or startled at the point of the undesired behaviour being exhibited in attempt to stop the behaviour. This ranges from spraying the dog in the face with water to using an electric shock collar. As already discussed many times, these methods act to suppress behaviour instead of changing the behaviour and are highly likely to exacerbate the behaviour thus making it worse.

The danger of aversive punishments is that it is often viewed as effective by dog owners who may see initial reductions in the undesired behaviour caused by distraction. In his book ‘Aggressive Behaviour in Dogs’  O’heare (2014) states; ‘in order for punishment to be effective in a behaviour change programme it must meet very rigid criteria which to most if not all dog trainers is practically impossible to achieve ergo any novice dog trainers have no hope of achieving desirable and safe results that will carry over the lifetime of the dog, more likely is that it will produce more intensive behavioural issues in the long run and also serious traumatic experiences for the dog.’ In addition it’s worth noting that a deterioration in behaviour can also result with even the most experienced of trainers as we do not always know the association the dog may make.

The book is short but by following the recommended procedure one should have a dog that is counter conditioned to look at the handler and avoid pulling towards other dogs while on the lead. This is a good starting point but if you want a dog that is happy to meet other dogs on the lead and on good terms then this book should be considered as a first step in a longer and more holistic program.

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A year in the life of a rescued Staffy – a testimonial

Layla is a Staffordshire Bull-Terrier of about 3 years old.

History

Layla was rescued through the All Dogs Matter Charity in December 2017 making the transition to a new and permanent home by January 2018. She had been abandoned in the street and left tied to a post. Layla was underweight and malnourished. She was still producing milk at the time so it was clear that she had recently give birth.

Issues

When aroused, Layla would sometimes pull on the lead and lunge at other dogs.

She appeared to have a strong chase drive with the main targets being squirrels and sometimes cats.

Layla would jump up at people to gain attention.

The clients wanted to learn more about Layla’s behaviour especially recognising signals and signs of emotional arousal particularly as they were concerned about Layla in the company of other dogs.

I recently asked for a testimonial:

“Danny has greatly helped us better understand our rescue dog Layla and her behaviour. This has made such a big difference in our relationship with Layla. The first few months after adopting Layla, we learned that she was reactive to other dogs. Since working with Danny, we have learnt more about dog signals, body language and how to manage her in different situations and her reactivity to other dogs has gone down.

It’s easy talking with Danny and he is really good at listening, is patient and isn’t prescriptive, but more guiding and positive in his training with ourselves and Layla. It continues to be a pleasure to meet up with Danny to learn more and improve our training with Layla. Working with Danny has made us more confident as dog owners.”

How nice of them to write such kind words.

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Puppy class – best practice

What is a puppy class?

A well-run puppy training class will be led by an experienced dog behaviourist or veterinarian who has received behavioural training. They usually take place at a dog training facility or local vet which has plenty of open space to work. While local classes will vary, most have an upper age of 16 to 20 weeks depending on the type of puppy. For example, toy breeds may be allowed to attend for longer, while puppies that have already grown adult teeth will probably be considered too old for puppy classes.

Most puppy training courses are held once a week for around four to eight weeks, though this will vary across local areas. Usually there will be a particular focus on two or three things during each class, such as ‘come’ or ‘wait’, and you will be expected to continue the training at home with your pup between classes. Classes often cover the basics including socialisation, tips for house training your puppy, basic obedience, and general communication between you and your dog.

What can my puppy learn from attending a puppy class?

Puppies can learn a lot from attending a well-run puppy class and the ultimate end-goal is to set a strong foundation for your dog’s training and behaviour in the future.

One of the most important skills a puppy can learn from these classes is bite inhibition. While it is normal behaviour for puppies to bite, this is not a behaviour that you want to be carried through into adulthood. As such, it is important for puppies to experiment with biting so that they can learn not to bite too hard and eventually not to bite at all.

Puppies attending puppy classes can also practice socialisation. This can help the pups learn how to socialise confidently and appropriately with other puppies, strangers, and veterinarians, an ability which is highly desirable in an adult dog. Socialisation is key if you want a dog that is able to communicate, read signals, and happily co-exist with other adult dogs and humans.

Puppy classes also offer the chance for puppies to practice ‘play’ behaviour. Play sessions are extremely important for puppies because they offer opportunities for the quick resolution of social problems, including fearful or aggressive behaviour. Having quick resolutions of these problems is important, because the more a puppy practices an unwanted behaviour without resolution, the more likely it is to become entrenched and carried through to adulthood. Dealing with entrenched behaviour late in life can lead to lengthy rehabilitation programmes.

In order to maximise learning from play, classes should include puppies of all sizes and play styles. Small dogs need to develop confidence and larger dogs should learn how to be gentle. Classes with only large dogs may encourage boisterous behaviour with the puppies learning to take these play styles with them into adolescents and adulthood. Similarly, if classes are limited to only small puppies, it is possible that these will become fearful of larger dogs, or not know how to approach them appropriately.

This short blog was based on a technical report submitted to “Think Dog Advanced – early learning in dogs”. The full technical report, with references, can be accessed by emailing the author at dannydecourtelle@rocketmail.com

 

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Sniffing out ‘dominance theory’ in dogs

Where did ‘dominance theory’ come from?

The common approach to canine social behaviour known as ‘dominance theory’ was built on research evidence which observed wolves, and showed that wolves live in hierarchical packs with the ‘alpha wolf’ at the top. Given that dogs evolved from wolves, researchers claimed that dogs also adhered to a hierarchical pack, with humans considered to be part of the pack. Dominance theory assumed that most unwanted behaviour, such as aggression, is due to the dog trying to be ‘dominant’ or wanting to be ‘the alpha dog in the pack’. As such, dominance theory suggests that the way to solve behavioural problems in dogs is to establish dominance as pack leader over the dog.

The idea that owners must dominate their dogs gained huge popularity in the 1960s with the publication of: The Wolf: Ecology and Behaviour of an Endangered Species published by David Mech. But these research findings have since been shown to have been inappropriately applied to the domestic dog. In 1999, David Mech published an updated work: Alpha Status, Dominance and Division of Labour in Wolf Packs, where he corrected his earlier mistaken ideas pointing out that dogs do not have the same social structures as adult wolves.

Among behavioural specialists, it is now widely recognised that dogs that use aggression towards humans or other dogs are not trying to be ‘dominant’, rather dogs may use aggression as a means to control situations where they feel frustrated, fearful or anxious. Sometimes, dogs who have used aggression repeatedly have learned that ‘it works’ and are therefore more likely to use aggression to control similar situations in the future.

What is wrong with ‘dominance theory’?

Among the field of canine behaviour, many professionals are concerned that the ‘dominance’ theory continues to survive even though more-and-more evidence shows that, at best the theory is unhelpful, at worst highly detrimental. Using this theory prevents many owners from understanding their dogs, can cause unhappiness, and can harm the human-animal bond. By definition the ‘dominance’ method relies on the social exclusion of the dog which in turn can lead to depression, anxiety and learned helplessness.

The ‘dominance’ theory for dog behaviour poses questions regarding dog welfare. Dominance-based approaches often use aversive training techniques such as ‘alpha rolls’ (forcing the dog down on its back and holding it there), staring the dog down (intimidation), or other confrontational methods and punishment which can cause fear, pain and distress to the dog. Aversive methods can also increase the dog’s underlying fear, frustration or anxiety, which can actually make the unwanted behaviour worse.

What should I use instead of ‘dominance theory’?

Ultimately, methods based on the theory of ‘dominance’ are flawed and should be avoided in favour of a more efficient, effective and evidence-based approach to canine behavioural change. Alternative, ethical approaches include ‘reward-based training’, ‘positive reinforcement’, and ‘counter-conditioning and desensitisation’, to name just a few.

Dogs should be trained using programmes that are designed to facilitate the development and maintenance of wanted behaviour, using positive reinforcement and other ethical techniques. This position is supported by the Royal Society of the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (RSPCA), as well as many respected academics in the field of canine behaviour.

When trying to change your dog’s behaviour, reward the behaviour you like. This might include acting calmly when the doorbell goes, instead of barking and jumping on guests. This approach centres on positive reinforcement, in other words, rewarding outcomes you want. Rewards can be food, toys, verbal praise, physical contact etc.

Alternative approaches to overcome unwanted canine behaviour will be addressed in more detail in other blogs.

This short blog was based on a technical report submitted to “Think Dog Advanced – Rank Structure ”. The full technical report, with references, can be accessed by emailing the author at dannydecourtelle@rocketmail.com